BPX 5-Day: Washakie Pass, Lizard Head and Cirque of the Towers Loop

Suggested Backpacking Section (BPX) itinerary for 4-day trip to be used for CMC trips led by BPX leaders for BPX members.

Day 1: Drive to Big Sandy TH and hike to Meeks Lake area: 1.5 miles, 300 Ft gain

Day 2: Meeks Lake to Skull Lake: 8.5 miles, 1,900 ft. gain

Day 3:  Skull Lake to Upper Valentine Lake via Washakie Pass: 6.8 miles, 1,900 ft gain

Day 4: Upper Valentine Lake to between Bear Lake and ¼ mile short of Lonesome Lake/Cirque: 10.4 miles, 2100 ft gain

Day 5: Lonesome Lake to Big Sandy TH via Jackass pass: 8.6 miles, 1,200 ft gain

Getting There: Can drive to Big Sandy trailhead on first day. Estimated Travel Time is 7+ hours (428 miles) from Denver to Big Sandy Trailhead. 

The parking area is too small for the number of backpackers visiting the area during the height of the summer.. The Forest Service has limited parking at the Big Sandy Parking lot. If the main parking lot fills up, please use the lot 0.5 miles down the road marked as “Overflow Parking”. The areas they have marked off from parking are clearly marked.

A high clearance vehicle is recommended to reach the trailhead. Subaru’s are fine. Passenger cars can make it OK if driven carefully.

This trailhead is remote, so be sure to have a full tank of gas. The dirt road becomes slippery when wet. The campground at the parking area is tiny, with only 4 sites. I would not plan on camping at the trailhead before starting the trip. You can try camping in the back of your car if you sleep ok.

General Requirements: Bridger Wilderness Organized Group Permit Required 

Hiking conditions are generally best from July to September but can be late July if a big snow year. July to August worst for mosquitoes and biting flies. Thunderstorms are common in summer months. Both grizzly and black bears are in the area so proper food storage is a must, see here.

Follow “Leave No Trace”: practices in the background. No camping within ¼ mile of Lonesome Lake.

National Forest: Bridger & Shoshone

USFS Ranger District: Pinedale (307) 367-4326 west of divide and Washakie (307) 332-4560 east of divide

Emergency Contacts: Sublette County Sheriff (307) 367-4378 and Fremont County Sheriff (307) 332-5611

Trails Illustrated Map: Recommended Area Map: Beartooth Publishing Wind River Map

Detailed trip description courtesy of Kevin Galliers with amendments by Randy Blosser:

Day 1 - Big Sandy to Marms Lake Description

Kiosk at the northeast end of the parking area, a wide path heads north on easy grades through trees and meadows along the west side of the Big Sandy River. Reach the junction with the Sedgewick Meadow trail branching right (east) at 0.6 miles. The Sedgewick Meadows trail is the shortest and most popular route to Big Sandy Lake. We continue straight along the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) and find camping near Meeks Lake. The grade abates as the trail passes Meeks Lakes, hidden in the trees to the west of the trail, at 1.2 miles.

Route Day 1

Day 2 - Meeks Lake to Skull Lake

Reach a "Y" intersection just north of Meeks Lake. The trail to the right is a longer, albeit more scenic, route to Big Sandy Lake via V and Diamond Lakes. We bear left (west) on the CDT trail toward Dads and Marms Lakes.

Soon the trail crosses the inlet stream for Meek Lake and then traverses a large meadow with views of Laturio Mountain (11,305-ft.) rising to the northeast. At 2.7 miles reach the junction with the Fremont Trail at the western edge of the meadow. Turn right (north) on the Fremont, heading toward Dads, Cross and North Fork Lakes. The trail to the left leads to the Big Sandy Lodge and the stock corrals near the trailhead.

The trail now ascends on moderate to easy grades through pine forest. Small meadows and openings in the trees offer nice views of Laturio Mountain to the east/northeast.

The grade abates as the trail begins a half mile traverse through a glorious meadow. Here terrific views stretch north to the massive cirque at the head of the East Fork Valley dominated by Mount Geikie (12,378-ft.), Mount Bonneville (12,585-ft.), Tower Peak (12,330-ft.), Mount Hooker (12,504-ft.) and Pyramid Peak (12,030-ft.). Midway through the meadow pass a sign verifying that you are on the CDT trail heading for Dad’s Lake. Some large flat rocks at the north end of the meadow offer great spots to rest and enjoy the view.

The trail descends through scattered trees and the meadows of Fish Creek Park to Fish Creek. From the meadows views extend east to Fish Lake and the peaks rising to the east. Cross Fish Creek at 2.9 miles and then ascend on moderate grades through meadows on the north side of the park to Mirror Lake at 3.3 miles.

The trail now travels along the western shore of Mirror Lake. Beyond the lake the path descends on easy grades through marshy meadows, skirting the right (east) side of a draw. In route the path crosses a minor creek and passes the junction with the Donald Lake trail heading right (east) at 3.7 miles.

Beyond the junction the trail starts descending to Dads Lake. The high peaks of the East Fork cirque form the backdrop for this pretty, irregular shaped lake studded with small rocky islands. As you descend, pass a use trail branching left (west) that leads to nice campsites along the south and west sides of the lake.

Reach the south end of Dads Lake (9,741-ft.) at 4.4 miles. The undulating trail climbs over a series of rocky knolls to the east side of the lake. During much of the traverse the lake is out of views. After descending from the first knoll the trail crosses Donald Lake’s outlet stream at 5.8 miles. By early to mid-July you can keep your feet reasonable dry by rock-hopping across the stream. Wading may be required during periods of high water.

At the north end of Dads Lake travels through a marshy meadow, crossing the lake’s inlet stream along the way. Past the meadow the path climbs on moderate grades up a narrow, rocky draw along the left (west) side of a stream. At the top of the draw the trail drops slightly to reach the south end of Marms Lake (9,878-ft.) at 5.2 miles.

Follow the trail along Marm’s western shore with good views of the peaks rising along the divide to the east. To the northeast is the ridge lining the south side of the Washakie Creek Valley.

At the north end of the lake reach a trail junction at 5.7 miles. Here the Pyramid Lake Trail, signed for Shadow Lake, branches right (northeast) and leads to Shadow Lake (along with Skull, Mae’s and Pyramid Lakes). The trail branching left (north), the continuation of the Fremont trail, heads to Cross Lake and beyond.

The Pyramid Lake trail, starting just north of Marms Lake, leads to the junction of the Washakie Pass trail, Skull Lake, Mae’s Lake and Pyramid Lake near the head of the scenic East Fork Valley. Skull Lake, just 0.4 miles from the Washakie Pass junction, offers nice campsites and is a popular overnight stop for backpacking bound for Washakie Pass. Mays Lake, 0.2 miles beyond the Hailey Pass junction, features scenic campsites and is a good place to spend the night.

Route Day 2

Day 3 – Skull Lake to Upper Valentine Lake

Most parties spend a night a Skull Lake before crossing Washakie Pass. If you visit Skull Lake before crossing the pass, add 0.4 miles to the trail mileage in the description below.

From Skull Lake climb the trail heading south to the junction with the Washakie Pass trail and turn left (east) on the trail to the pass. (If coming from Washakie Creek, turn right (east) at the junction on the Washakie Pass trail.)

Ascend on easy to moderate grade through a pretty meadows scattered with trees and rock outcroppings. Great views extend northwest to Mt. Geikie (12,378-ft.), Ambush Peak (12,187-ft.), Raid Peak (12,532-ft.), Mt. Bonneville (12,585-ft.) and Tower Peak (12,330-ft.).

At 0.7 miles the serrated summits along the backside of the Cirque of the Towers form the backdrop for a small tarn. To the northwest the peaks forming the cirque at the head of the East Fork valley rise above a low ridge. A short distance beyond the tarn the trail curves to the left (northeast).

As you ascend the trees thin and the trail now weaves its way through meadows studded with rock outcroppings. Ahead Mount Washakie (12,524-ft.) dominates the view. To the northwest enjoy ever improving views of Mt. Geikie, Ambush peak and Raid Peak. Turn around for views of Twin Buttes (11,108-ft.) towering above a vast alpine meadows to the west.

At 1.1 miles the grade steepens as we leave the last of the trees behind. The trail now ascends steeply through rocky alpine meadows. Ahead Washakie Pass, the saddle on the ridge between Mount Washakie and Bernard Peak (12,393-ft.), is now in view. The final stiff climb to the pass travels through rocky alpine tundra.

Reach Washakie Pass (11,611-ft.) at 2.0 miles. As your crest the pass, views open east to the sheer cliffs and high peaks towering above Macon and Washakie Lakes nestled in the alpine basin below the pass. The summit of Lizard Head Peak (12,842-ft.) appears above the ridge to the southeast while Cathedral peak rises above the Lizard Head Plateau to the east.

The pass literally appears to have a split personality with the gray granite slopes of Mount Washakie looming above the pass to the south while the dark brown volcanic rock of Bernard Peak rises to the north.

After taking in the views carefully descend switchbacks down the very steep talus slopes on the east side of the pass. The going is difficult if slick snow and ice cover the trail. After losing about 200-ft. the trail gets a bit easier.

Soon the path leaves the talus behind and continues its steep descent through rocky meadows, occasionally crossing small streams carrying snowmelt from the steep slopes above the trail. Be sure to follow the cairned route as you descend from the pass. It is easy to miss a jog in the trail if you are not paying attention.

At 2.5 miles, about 480-ft. below the pass, the trail briefly hits the top of the ridge above Pass Lake (10,627-ft.). To the south views open to the Washakie Glacier tucked in a bowl beneath Big Chief Mountain (12,335-ft.). Mount Washakie towers above the Pass Lake basin.

Soon the grade abates as the trail reaches the western end of Macon Lake (10,771-ft.) at 2.9 miles. Here a rocky trail travels along the lake’s southern shore, winding its way around large erratic boulders. At the mid-point of the lake the path crosses the outlet stream on rocks.

From the lakeshore enjoy great views of Big Chief Mountain, Washakie Glacier, Mount Washakie, Washakie Pass and Bernard Peak. The lake is a favorite of fishermen but is too exposed and rocky for good camping. My advice is to continue to Washakie Lake or further to camp.

At 3.2 miles the trail starts the steep descent through meadows and spruce-pine forest to the bench holding Washakie Lake (10,363-ft.), arriving at the lake’s western shore at 3.7 miles after losing a little over 370-ft. Buffalo Head and the sheer cliffs extending south from the formation form the backdrop for this beautiful lake.

Here the trail turns north, traveling on easy grades through meadows and scattered trees along the west side of the lake. At 4.0 miles the trail crosses and inlet stream and then curves to the right (east), traversing the north side of the lake. If you are looking to camp, the best sites are located above the lake’s north and west shores.

At 4.2 miles the trail curves to the left (northeast) and reaches the end of the bench at 4.7 miles. Along this section of the hike Buffalo Head (11,717-ft.) is your constant companion, towering above the lake basin to the east.

The trail now descends from the bench on moderate grades. Openings in the trees offer views to the north of the unnamed peaks in the Wind River Indian Reservation. At 5.1 miles the trail crosses the outlet stream for Loch Leven Lake. Soon the grade eases and the trees give way to meadows as the path parallels the west side of the South Fork of the Little Wind River.

Reach a junction with the Bear Ears trail at 5.7 miles. Bear right (east) on the Bear Ears trail which drops down to and crosses the river and then heads toward Valentine Lake. The segment of the Bear Ears trail continuing straight ahead (downstream) leads to Graves Lake and is used as part of a loop hike that crosses Hailey Passes. LINK

The river ranges from shin to knee deep with a good current. Trekking poles or a stick are helpful to keep your balance when negotiating the slimy rocks along the riverbed and during periods of high water.

On the east side of the creek the trail turns south and ascends through trees up a hot, dry hillside to Ranger Park at 6.0 miles. Here the trail turns left (east), crosses the north end of the park and reenters the trees.

Before reaching Valentine Lake, there is South Forks Lake trail going south. To camp at the idyllic Upper Valentine take this trail for approximately ¾ mile to the more secluded Upper Valentine Lake complete with swim island.

Return to Bears Ear trail and the trail now climbs switchbacks on moderate grades through trees to the outlet stream for Valentine Lake (10,399-ft.) at 6.8 miles.

Valentine Lake is set amid a backdrop of the sheer granite cliffs of the Lizard Head Plateau. Valentine Lake, Upper Valentine Lake or Little Valentine Lake further up the trail, are all good places to spend the night before tackling the crossing of the Lizard Head Plateau, with the Upper Lake having less people and more camping opportunities. .

Camping is not permitted around the Valentine Lake’s outlet stream. The best campsites are found along the lake’s western shore. To explore this area backtrack about 600-ft. from the outlet stream and look for a use trail heading left (south). (If you are coming up the trail from the South Fork the use trail is to your right.) The trail wanders between some large boulders and then fades as it crosses a meadow. Beyond the meadow you will find vestiges of trails that climb to campsites nestled atop the knolls and above small coves along the lake’s western shore.

To the south of Upper Valentine Lake are the seldom visited South Fork Lakes. To reach the lakes, find the use trail that travels along the low ridge to the west of Valentine Lake. This trail heads south into the area. Along the way you will pass Upper Valentine Lake with very nice campsites. It is about 1.5 miles to the South Fork Lakes, nestled in a stunning basin surrounds by granite peaks and cliffs. The lakes are reported to have good fishing for cutthroat trout and would be an excellent zero day stop before Lizard Head Plateau. Make sure you have a map to help you find the lakes and explore the area.

Route Day 3

Day 4 - Valentine Lake to Lonesome Lake Cirque of the Towers 

This segment of the loop crosses the tundra-clad Lizard Head Plateau with spectacular views of the southern Wind River peaks. Don’t attempt this trail unless you have good weather. A 5.5 mile segment of the trail travels above timberline at an average elevation of 11,500-ft. As you cross the plateau there is literally no place to hide in the event of a thunderstorm.

I have crossed the plateau on many occasions, always getting an early start to beat the afternoon thunderstorms, a frequent occurrence in the Rocky Mountains. On one of my crossings I got caught in a fast moving, violent thunderstorm as I started the descent from the high point on the plateau to Lonesome Lake. It was a truly scary experience with ear-splitting thunderclaps overhead, howling winds and icy rain. Be smart, get an early starts and don’t push you luck if bad weather is threatening.

This description assumes you are starting from Valentine Lake, 1.1 miles above the junction of the Washakie and Bear Ears Trail near the South Fork of the Little Wind River. Valentine Lake and Little Valentine Lake, further up the trail, are popular overnight stops for backpackers planning to cross the plateau the next day.

From Valentine Lake head northeast on the Bear Ears Trail, climbing on easy to moderate grades through trees up the north side of the valley. Pass a signed junction with the Moss Lake trail, branching to the left (northeast), at 0.5 miles. We continue ascending on the Bear Ears Trail toward the Lizard Head plateau.

As the trail climbs the trees thin and views open to Cathedral Peak (12,236-ft.) towering above the cliffs to the southeast. To the west/northwest are distant views of Buffalo Head (11,717-ft.), Mount Washakie (12,524-ft.), Washakie Pass, Bernard Peak (12,193-ft.) and Chess Ridge.

At 1.2 miles the trail briefly curves to the right (south) as it ascends along a path chiseled into a steep, rocky hillside. To the south views open to Little Valentine Lake nestled in a rocky bowl beneath the cliffs of the Lizard Head Plateau. At the base of the hillside Valentine Creek meanders through a marshy meadow. To the northwest views open to Musembeah Peak (12,593-ft.) and the summits rising to the north of Grave Lake.

At 1.4 miles the trail curves to the left (east) and leaves the last of the trees behind as it ascends rocky meadows littered with willow thickets. Along the way pass a faint use trail (1.5 miles) descending to a knoll above Little Valentine Lake where there are some nice campsites.

Soon the trail starts switchbacking up rocky meadows on moderate grades. As you gain elevation Washakie and Grave Lakes come into view, set amid a backdrop of high peaks and sheer cliffs, to the west and northwest respectively.

Reach the top of the switchbacks at 2.2 miles. The trail now continues ascending on moderate grades through tundra to the plateau at 2.6 miles. Atop the plateau the path descends on easy grades across a bowl to a trail junction at 2.7 miles. Here the Bear Ears Trail turns left (north). We turn right (south) on the Lizard Head Trail, which descends on gentle grades to cross the nascent Valentine Creek at 2.8 miles.

Beyond the creek the trail climbs the north and then west facing slopes beneath Cathedral Peak to the second highest point (11,806-ft.) on the trail at 3.7 miles. As you ascend enjoy amazing views of an ever evolving panorama of the southern Wind River peaks. Mount Baldy and the peaks around Tepee Pass rise to the north. To the northwest are more incredible views of the peaks towering above the Grave and Baptiste valleys. You are now high enough to see the summits of Mount Bonneville and Pronghorn Peak rising beyond Mount Lander and Musembeah Peak. Closer at hand are the massive ridges and sheer cliffs of Buffalo Head and Chess Ridge. The huge ridge in the distance to the northwest is Robert’s Mountain.

As you reach the second highest point, the summits forming the stunning cirque around the South Fork Lakes spring into view. Mount Washakie, Washakie Pass and Bernard Peak are now visible to the west. The rugged summit of Cathedral Peak looms above the trail to the east while its neighbor, Peak 12012, dominates the skyline to the southeast. To the south the summits of Mitchell Peak (12,482-ft.), Dogtooth Mountain (12,468-ft.) and Big Sandy Mountain (12,416-ft.) peek above the vast tundra clad plateau.

After taking in the views, follow the trail as it drops on moderately steep grades into a bowl between Cathedral Peak and Peak 12012 at 4.0 miles. Rock cairns mark the trail, which fades at times as it crosses the tundra. Beyond the bowl the trail ascends on easy to moderate grades through an alpine wonderland with more glorious views.

At 5.1 miles the grade steepens as the path climbs toward the high point along the trail. As you ascend be sure to turn around for more great views of the peaks to the northwest. Near at hand, Lizard Head Peak towers to the southwest while the ridges and peaks rimming the South Fork cirque dominate the view to the west.

Reach the high point (11,864-ft.) on the trail at 5.6 miles. Here views unfold to the peaks defining the Continental Divide, including Mitchell Peak, Dogtooth Mountain and Big Sandy Mountain along the south side of the North Fork Popo Agie River valley.

From the high point the trail curves to the southeast as it descends on moderate grades along the west facing flanks of Windy Mountain. Along the way enjoy great views of the Monolith, an interesting tower rising above Papoose Lake to the south. To the west, Bear Lake is now in view at the foot of Lizard Head Peak.

At 6.7 miles the trail turns south and begins a very steep descent to Lizard Head Meadows at the foot of Windy Mountain. To the west views open to the Cirque of the Towers and Lonesome Lake. On a beautiful day photographers will be reaching for their cameras to capture the amazing scene of Lizard Head Peak and Bear Lake set against the backdrop of the Cirque and Lonesome Lake.

The steep trail demands your attention, making it hard to take in the views while descending. At 7.1 miles the trail hits the timberline and the descent gets a little bit easier, but is still very steep.

Reach the signed junction with the Bear Lake trail heading right (northwest) at 7.5 miles. We turn left (southeast) and continue descending on the Lizard Head trail. A short distance beyond the grades steepens as the trail drops down two long switchbacks to the signed junction with the North Fork Trail at 8.25 miles. Turn right (west) on the North Fork Trail toward Jackass Pass and the Cirque of the Towers. Heading left (east) leads to Pinto Park and the Dickinson Park trailhead.

Reach beautiful Lizard Head Meadows a short distance beyond the junction. Here the Cirque of the Towers forms the stunning backdrop for North Fork Popo Agie River meandering through the emerald green meadows carpeted with willow thickets.

The trail now arcs around the east and the north side of the meadows, crossing two streams at 8.6 and 8.7 miles. A section of this trail is often flooded by the first stream. Past the second crossing the trail travels through trees along the north side of the meadows. Nice campsites with great views of the Cirque are found in the wooded fringe to the south of the trail.

Reach the west end of the meadows at 9.1 miles. Here the trail climbs through trees on easy grades to the beginning of the bench cradling Lonesome Lake at 9.8 miles. For the next quarter miles you will find a few nice campsites in the forested fringe to the south of the trail. Be sure to camp 200-ft. from the river and 100-ft. from the trail.

The trail now descends on easy grades through trees and small meadows toward the lake. At 10.0 miles pass a sign indicating that you are within a quarter miles of Lonesome Lake. Remember that no camping is allowed within a quarter mile of the lake. There are good site off trail with great views of the Towers just before you get to the no camping boundary.

Reach the east shore of lovely Lonesome Lake (10,166-ft.) at 10.3 miles. From this viewpoint the Cirque of the Towers, an amazing spectacle of jagged peaks and spires rising over 12,000-ft., soars above Lonesome Lake. Prominent peaks visible from the lake’s eastern shore include Bollinger Peak (12,232-ft.), Pingora Peak (11,884-ft.), the Watch Tower, Pylon Peak (12,378-ft.), the Warriors (12,360-ft. and 12,406-ft.) and Warbonnet Peak (12,369-ft.).

Very limited camping can be found on the benches above the lake and in the upper lake basin to the west. Best to start searching for a site before you are a quarter mile from Lonesome Lake. Always use an existing campsite that is 200-ft. away from water sources and 100-ft. away from the main trail.

Bears are a problem at the Cirque of the Towers and Big Sandy Lake. Bear resistant canisters are recommended. Alternatively use approved techniques for hanging your food. The Cirque of the Towers is a popular place and can get quite crowded during the height of the summer. Respect your fellow campers by keeping the noise down at night.

If your schedule permits, I recommend spending a few days hiking around the Cirque. A relaxing day can be spent circling Lonesome Lake, a trip that offers great perspectives of the Cirque from a number of different angles. Other recommended day hikes include the steep route ascending to Texas Pass and ascending part way up the Lizard Head trail to visit the Bear Lakes. There are also routes leading to Hidden and Cirque Lakes that require some scrambling over boulder fields.

Route Day 4

Day 5 - Lonesome Lake to Big Sandy Trailhead via Jackass Pass

The North Fork trail ends at the eastern shore of Lonesome Lake (10,166-ft.). Here the trail to Jackass Pass heads south along the shore. Almost immediately the trail crosses the outlet stream and then curves to the right (southwest), paralleling the shoreline. Take care to stay on the main trail, marked with rock cairns. Several use trail leading to camping areas branch left from the main trail. It is easy to get off track if you are not paying attention.

Soon the trail crosses a minor inlet stream and a short distance beyond reaches a cairned junction. Turn left (south) at the junction toward Jackass Pass. The trail straight ahead continues around the lake.

The trail now climbs on moderate and then very steep grades, zig-zagging up rocky meadows with scattered trees. As you climb enjoy ever improving views of the Cirque of the Towers. To the north are great views of Lizard Head Peak (12,842-ft.), Camels Hump (12,492-ft.) and the peaks around Texas Pass. Wolfs Head (12,163-ft.), Overhanging Tower (12,164-ft.), Sharks Nose (12,229-ft.) and Block Tower (12,210-ft.) are now in view, rising to the west of Pingora Peak (11,884-ft.). The Watch Tower and Pylon Peak (12,378-ft.) complete the scene. Warbonnet (12,369-ft.) and the Warrior Peaks (12,360-ft. and 12,406-ft.) tower above the south side of the cirque.

Soon you leave the last of the trees behind, continuing the ascent through alpine meadows to Jackass Pass (10,790-ft.), a saddle between Mitchell Peak (12,482-ft.) and Warbonnet Peak, at 0.8 miles. From the pass enjoy fine views of Lonesome Lake and the Cirque.

From the pass the trail heads south, descending steeply through alpine meadows to an unmarked junction above the north end of Arrowhead Lake (10,420-ft.). Here our trail turns left (southeast) and climbs steeply through meadows and then rock outcroppings along the western flanks of Mitchell Peak. Near the top of the climb enjoy more great views of the cirque.

Note: The trail heading right (southwest) at the junction curves around the head of Arrowhead Lake and then traverses a boulder field along the west side of the lake. The boulder field is quite difficult to negotiate when wearing a backpack. I recommend taking the main trail.

After going over a small hump the trail ascends to the high point (10,775-ft.) above Arrowhead Lake at 1.3 miles. Here views stretch south to East Temple Peak (12,620-ft.), Temple Peak (12,972-ft.) and Schiestler Peak (11,624-ft.) towering above the Deep and Temple Lake drainages.

Follow the trail as it descends on steep grades through alpine meadows growing amid rock slabs and outcroppings. Impressive Warbonnet Peak looms overhead to the west. Soon trees begin to appear as the trail drops down to a narrow valley below the foot of Arrowhead Lake.

At 1.7 miles pass a junction with a use trail branching right. This is the end of the trail traversing the boulder field along the west side of Arrowhead Lake. We continue descending on the main trail. The grade abates briefly before dropping down a very steep, rocky hillside to the head of North Lake (10,105-ft.) at 2.0 miles. Sundance Pinnacle dominates the views above the southwest side of the narrow valley.

The trail now traverses a marshy area as it curves around the north end of the lake and then briefly travels along the eastern shore. Watch for rock cairns marking the beginning of an ascent up the steep rocky slopes above the east side of the lake. A cairned route climbs up rock slabs and detours around large outcroppings high above the east side of North Lake. At times you may need to use your hands for balance as you negotiate obstacles. Take occasional breaks from the climb to enjoy the views of Sundance Pinnacle, to the southwest, and Warbonnet Peak, to the northwest.

At 2.3 miles reach the apex of the climb high above the foot of the lake. The trail now descends on moderate grades across rock slabs, around outcroppings and through rocky meadows along the east side of the narrow valley.

At 2.6 miles the trail turns right (west) and drops down to cross North Creek at 2.7 miles. On the west side of the creek the trail turns south and descends on easy grades through meadows and trees. Views open to Haystack (11,978-ft.) and Steeple Peaks (12,040-ft.) rising along the east side of the Deep Creek valley.

At 3.0 miles the trail starts a steep descent on switchbacks to Big Sandy Lake (9,690-ft.), reaching an unmarked junction above the lake’s north shore at 3.3 miles. Here a trail branches left (east/southeast), traveling through meadows around Big Sandy’s northern and eastern shores to the trails climbing to Clear, Deep and Black Joe Lakes. We bear right (southwest) on the trail dropping down to the northwest end of the lake at 3.5 miles.

The lake is a very popular place to camp. Don’t expect solitude. Campsites are located on the forested benches above the lakeshore. There is also good camping around Clear, Black Joe and Deep Lakes to the east/southeast of Big Sandy Lake.

Many people setup a basecamp at Big Sandy and then day hike to Jackass Pass and the lakes to the east/southeast. This is a good option for hikers that don’t want to lug a backpack over the Jackass Pass trail.

The trail now travels through meadows and scattered trees along the western shore of Big Sandy Lake, crossing the creek draining Blue Lake, to the east, at 3.6 miles. The lakeshore enjoys great views of Haystack, Steeple and East Temple Peak to the southeast. Big Sandy looms above the lake to the east. Dogtooth Mountain and Mitchell Peak rise along the ridge to the northwest of Big Sandy Peak. Schiestler Peak towers above the lake to the south.

Reach the southwestern end of Big Sandy Lake at 4.1 miles. Beyond the lake the trail climbs a small rise and then descends through spruce-pine forest on easy to moderate grades along the northwest side of a narrow draw, crossing three small streams along the way. A short distance beyond the third creek crossing the trail travels through a pretty meadow.

At 5.5 miles reach the junction with the trail to Diamond and V Lake branching to the right. We bear left and continue descending through trees. The trail reaches the first of two large meadows at 6.0 miles. Here the Big Sandy River meanders down the valley floor. To the northeast are views of Big Sandy Mountain and Schiestler Peak.

At the end of the second meadow, at 6.5 miles, the trail climbs over two minor humps to avoid steep sections of the river bank. Below the trail, the river cascades over the rocky riverbed.

At 7.1 miles the trail starts an easy descent along the forested fringe of another lovely meadow with fine views of the placid Big Sandy River snaking along the valley floor. Near the foot of the meadow turn around for nice views of Warbonnet Peak, Mitchell Peak, Dogtooth Mountain, Big Sandy Mountain and Schiestler Peak rising at the head of the Big Sandy Valley.

At 7.5 miles the trail reenters the trees and now descends through pine forest and intermittent meadows. Follow the trail as it curves to the right (west) at 8.0 miles and makes a short, steep decent to an oxbow bend along the river. The trail now parallels the bend in the river, crossing the Meeks Creek at 8.25 miles.

Beyond the crossing reach the junction with the Continental Divide Trail at 8.3 miles. Turn left (south) on the trail toward the Big Sandy trailhead. Follow the broad path as it travels along the west side of the Big Sandy River through meadows and trees to the trailhead at 9.0 miles.

Route Day 5

 

• Suitable Activities: Backpacking
• Seasons: July, August, September
• Weather: View weather forecast

• Difficulty: Challenging
• Length: 36.0 mi
• Elevation Gain: 7,100 ft
• High Point: 11,864 ft

• Land Manager: U.S. Forest Service
• Parking Permit Required: USFS Permits & Passes
• Recommended Party Size: 6
• Maximum Party Size: 12
• Maximum Route/Place Capacity: 12