The High Altitude Mountaineering School (HAMS) is for CMC members who are interested in learning and practicing the alpine skills that are needed to safely climb and enjoy high, glaciated mountains, including Mt. Rainier, Denali, the Andes, and the Himalayas! HAMS culminates in a high peak climb of Mt. Rainier, Mt Baker, Mt Adams or a similar high, glaciated peak.
The HAMS curriculum consists of a series of lectures and practice sessions on “Glacier Travel / High Peak Expeditions” module. The lectures and practices sessions are held at the AMC building in Golden, CO. Several training days for glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and glacier camping practice are also put on the calendar. Students who complete HAMS will be able to demonstrate proficiency with advanced mountaineering technical skills, including:
The skills covered in the Glacier Travel module in the lectures and practice sessions can be applied during the training trips in January, February, and March (refer to the schedule below). To complete HAMS , students must also complete a co-requisite module, HAMS Basic Ice Climbing; they must participate in an Expedition Camping and Couloir Climbing weekend in the spring; they must have climbed at least three Colorado snow couloirs; and they must participate on a high peak expedition trip, typically Mt. Rainier.
In addition to the technical skills associated with glacier travel that were listed above, the HAMS program will teach you what it takes to mount a successful expedition: planning, logistics, conditioning, nutrition, awareness of high-altitude medical issues, backcountry risk management, and most importantly, TEAMWORK.
All HAMS Senior Instructors have been on multiple expeditions to climb high, glaciated peaks – learn from those who have been there!
HAMS Pre-requisites:
This is not a school for beginners! HAMS students should have rock, snow, and anchor experience: i.e., you must be proficient with climbing knots, belaying, rappelling, navigation, crampon and ice ax technique, self-arrest, glissading, and ascending a rope. Most importantly, you must have proficiency climbing hard-snow couloirs, setting snow anchors, walking in crampons, executing a self arrest, and tying all relevant knots.
The formal pre-requisites for admission to HAMS are:
– While not a pre-requisite, AIARE 1 and Rock Rescue are highly recommended for all applicants.
To graduate from HAMS, a student must complete the “Glacier Travel / High Peak Expeditions” module, demonstrate proficiency at crevasse rescue and glacier camping, complete at least two couloir climbs after HAMS, and participate on a self-led (or “lightly-led”) expedition to a high glaciated peak, such as Mt. Rainier. However, we feel that an accomplished high-peak alpinist should also have basic first aid training and avalanche training, so we award a HAMS Alpinist certificate to HAMS graduates who also achieve the following:
The 2020 HAMS schedule will include the following lecture and field dates. Note that we may need to adjust the order of lecture topics based on availability of guest speakers. Dates are FIXED and are not subject to change irrespective of weather or conditions. Please do NOT apply for HAMS if you cannot make the dates as scheduled. If a student misses more than one lecture or field day (unless written permission is given by the Director), the student may not be allowed to participate on a HAMS grad climb. Every year students do not graduate HAMS due to lack of attendance.
Couloir Climbs: Grad Climb training climbs – April through June, trip schedule TBD (and weather-dependent).
HAMS Glaciated Peak Grad Climb (N.B. cost of grad climb is SEPARATE from the HAMS lecture series fee)
HAMS Class Lectures, Practice Sessions, Ouray Weekend, and Expedition Camping:
HAMS Glaciated Peak Grad Climb: TBD (N.B. cost of grad climb is separate from the HAMS lecture series fee)
ALL applications must be submitted by December 31, 2019 ! Class size will be limited. Once approved by the Director, you will be provided a registration link.
For more info, please contact the 2020 HAMS Director, Brandon Daniell at jbdaniell312@gmail.com
Applicants will be notified of acceptance starting in September 2019 and thereafter.
Application Form – PDF format
Other Links
CO Avalanche Info Center
CMC Denver Group
Backcountry Snowsports Initiative